Just finished printing this tonight. I also have a tutorial i filmed on how I created it. Tomorrow Itll be posted and uploaded to thingiverse as well for the world to have as well. Here’s some sneak peak photo’s
Just finished printing this tonight. I also have a tutorial i filmed on how I created it. Tomorrow Itll be posted and uploaded to thingiverse as well for the world to have as well. Here’s some sneak peak photo’sView full post
I printed this for a friend having a major dilemma. He does motion graphics and video editing for Dakita Graphics. However due to his desk layout he doesn’t really have a good place to put his headphones when he’s not using them. The solution was the iMac headphone holder. Total construction time took me 2 …View full post
Have been off the 3d printing for a while now, new parts coming in this week hopefully. I’ve been doing alot of site construction and working on an authentication method for users as I’ve been getting a lot of spam accounts. Spammers you are not welcome here! BE GONE!View full post
I’m playing with the website colors to find a easy to read color scheme that also looks awesome. Don’t be surprised if the site ends up rainbow looking for a while.
New video intro! Thanks to Dakita Graphics. Much better than the previous one.
April 16, 2013
I printed this for a friend having a major dilemma. He does motion graphics and video editing for Dakita Graphics. However due to his desk layout he doesn’t really have a good place to put his headphones when he’s not using them. The solution was the iMac headphone holder. Total construction time took me 2 hours to design in sketchup, and 1 hour print time. It’s attached with a slim piece of double sided tape.
First I designed it in sketchup. I did this by taking a front picture of an iMac with a ruler on top. Then I imported the picture into sketchup and just increased the size until the ruler in sketchup lined up with the one in the picture. After that it was simply tracing the outline of the iMac screen.
I attached the letters DG to the top for Dakita Graphics.
You’ll notice this one isn’t exactly finished and you can see the infill. I hit print, and then started playing video games in the background and when I looked over my spool had run out. It actually worked out as my friend thought it was apart of the design…WIN!
I’ve uploaded everything to thingiverse here iMac Headphone holder
As usual print what you want!
Have been off the 3d printing for a while now, new parts coming in this week hopefully. I’ve been doing alot of site construction and working on an authentication method for users as I’ve been getting a lot of spam accounts. Spammers you are not welcome here! BE GONE!
I was digging through the firmware that I was about to compile and upload into my board and I came across this on the first page.
***NOTE*** These are for the Reprap firmware based on Sprinter and grbl. (If you have a stock board from printerbot HQ this is most likely what you are running)
These are the Implemented codes or the codes that you can enter into pronterface and click send to instruct things to your printer on the fly. Now I have personally only used some of these when I’m troubleshooting but who knows you can use them to make adjustments as well.
// G0 -> G1
// G1 – Coordinated Movement X Y Z E
// G2 – CW ARC
// G3 – CCW ARC
// G4 – Dwell S
// G28 – Home all Axis
// G90 – Use Absolute Coordinates
// G91 – Use Relative Coordinates
// G92 – Set current position to cordinates given
//RepRap M Codes
// M104 – Set extruder target temp
// M105 – Read current temp
// M106 – Fan on
// M107 – Fan off
// M109 – Wait for extruder current temp to reach target temp.
// M114 – Display current position
//Custom M Codes
// M17 – Enable/Power all stepper motors
// M18 – Disable all stepper motors; same as M84
// M20 – List SD card
// M21 – Init SD card
// M22 – Release SD card
// M23 – Select SD file (M23 filename.g)
// M24 – Start/resume SD print
// M25 – Pause SD print
// M26 – Set SD position in bytes (M26 S12345)
// M27 – Report SD print status
// M28 – Start SD write (M28 filename.g)
// M29 – Stop SD write
// M30 – Delete file from SD (M30 filename.g)
// M31 – Output time since last M109 or SD card start to serial
// M42 – Change pin status via gcode
// M80 – Turn on Power Supply
// M81 – Turn off Power Supply
// M82 – Set E codes absolute (default)
// M83 – Set E codes relative while in Absolute Coordinates (G90) mode
// M84 – Disable steppers until next move,
// or use S
// M85 – Set inactivity shutdown timer with parameter S
// M92 – Set axis_steps_per_unit – same syntax as G92
// M114 – Output current position to serial port
// M115 - Capabilities string
// M117 – display message
// M119 – Output Endstop status to serial port
// M140 – Set bed target temp
// M190 – Wait for bed current temp to reach target temp.
// M200 – Set filament diameter
// M201 – Set max acceleration in units/s^2 for print moves (M201 X1000 Y1000)
// M202 – Set max acceleration in units/s^2 for travel moves (M202 X1000 Y1000) Unused in Marlin!!
// M203 – Set maximum feedrate that your machine can sustain (M203 X200 Y200 Z300 E10000) in mm/sec
// M204 – Set default acceleration: S normal moves T filament only moves (M204 S3000 T7000) im mm/sec^2 also sets minimum segment time in ms (B20000) to prevent buffer underruns and M20 minimum feedrate
// M205 – advanced settings: minimum travel speed S=while printing T=travel only, B=minimum segment time X= maximum xy jerk, Z=maximum Z jerk, E=maximum E jerk
// M206 – set additional homeing offset
// M220 S
// M221 S
// M240 – Trigger a camera to take a photograph
// M301 – Set PID parameters P I and D
// M302 – Allow cold extrudes
// M400 – Finish all moves
// M500 – stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 – reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 – reverts to the default “factory settings”. You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
// M503 – print the current settings (from memory not from eeprom)
// M303 – PID relay autotune S
Copyright (C) 2011 Camiel Gubbels / Erik van der Zalm
That is a copy, paste straight from the code. I’m starting to toy with making changes in the firmware and now the sky is really the limit for my 3d printing. I’m still having troubles actually uploading the firmware to my board but a great site that I have been referencing is http://blog.lincomatic.com/. These are the codes you need in order to create custom buttons in pronterface. These are also great to add to your custom gcode option in slicer.
I’ll give some examples of the codes I use:
G92 x100y100z100 – The code is G92 with the variables being x100y100z100. G92 sets the current position for the x,y, and z axis. I use this alot when I’m testing my home stops. Alot of the times you be nudging it with the manual increments of pronterface and all of a sudden it won’t move anymore although there is still room to move. The above command essentially tells the printer there is more room to go allowing you to continue to nudge the printer with pronterface. Be careful though this will also let you move past the physical limits of you printer. If you are within 10 milimeters of the edge don’t hit the 100…bad thing will happen and you have to panic and turn off the power to stop the printer.
M85 s300 – The code M85 is the inactivity shutdown timer. This command uses seconds to measure time and the number has to be preceded by s.
M114 – This will show you where the printer thinks it is x,y, and z. This can be extremely useful when your trying to dial in your bed size or calibrate you axis stops.
M106 – Turns on your Fan.
M107 – Turns off your Fan. I have used both of these commands when I was testing my fans functionality that I put on my printrbot.
There is alot more you can do with these commands. I’ve only scratched the surface on them with this article.
The categories dropdown at the top is now functional! I have also changed the names of a couple categories to make the site easier to navigate and expand. The site is still new and under development so bare with me as I will frequently be making changes.
When I first built the printrbot the power supply for bed and extruder to the high temperatures necessary to print abs plastic. I swapped out the cheap diabolic power supply to one with a higher wattage. I happened to have this old thermaltake lying around from an old pc build. This doubled my wattage from 300 to 600.
Instantly I noticed 2 things.
1. I could finally get the extruder to heat to 230.
2. The time it took for the bed to get up to temperature was cut almost in half.
Unfortunately my problems didnt start here and now my abs would not stick. I even went to lowes and got a piece of glass and put kapton tape ontop. For reasons unknown to me at the moment my bed will not get hotter than 70c. As you know abs calls for a bed temp of 110c. Ignoring the bed temp I wanted a temporary solution so I could print something.
I used blue painters tape to cover the glass and then sprayed some of the wifes hairspray onto the tape. This made the abs stick perfectly. However there are a couple draw backs to this.
1. Redoing the scotch tape about every 2 prints is annoying and gets old quick.
2. I need to buy generic hairspray and not my wifes namebrand stuff. At $30 for a tiny bottle its a little expensive.
I got the ninja star here www.thingiverse.com. Its a great website for some quick and free stl files to print. They also have every replacement part for the Printrbot you would need from the man himself. I’m still working on printing out all of the pieces to replace the wood on my printrbot. I feel that they will help me stabilize my z axis which is currently not perfectly straight and causes my layers to not lay accurately when printing.
*in my previouse post you see my progression of hearts. The grey plastic is pla. I had problems with the 1st layer as well. Turns out a fan blowing on pastic being laid is a must according to the interwebs. Im working on printing off a fan bracket/duct*
Next post is going to explain using printerface, slic3r and maybe a couple other programs. I plan on going over their settings but more importantly how to use them with each other.
After 4 hours of troubleshooting and almost burning my printrbot I finally have good prints. I’m actually printing replacement pieces for the bot right now before I do something to mess it up. I’m working on making a video of all the steps I took but for a quick sneak peak of my progress here are my creations along the way!
When I was done building my printer I had extra screws. This seems to be a common problem when I take things apart or build them and usually causes problems later. The one problem I ended up with on the printrbot was that the screws holding down the hot plate would hit the sleeve bearings for the y-axis as shown in the picture below.
To solve this I had to make a run to ACE hardware to pickup a shorter M3 screw that was shorter and would clear the bearing. Here is the after photo.
Like any time I go to any hardware store I spend extra time moseying around looking at tools, or specialty bolts. While I was doing this I came across these rubber spacers in the hardware section.
I bought about 8 of them in several different sizes. I’m still having a problem leveling my y axis and knew that these would help and allow me to easily adjust it on the fly in the future. I placed them underneath as demonstrated in the photo below with a bolt on the bottom. Their squish factor gives you just the right amount to adjust the corners up or down for making fine adjustments.
I plan on replacing most of the parts on the printrbot with my own eventually. Once I level it out to make quality prints I will begin them. My next step is to get a piece of glass to go over the hot bed. My hot bed warps by about .3 mm in the middle creating a bubble effect. This is causing my print quality to be substandard.